Better yet they tell you if it fits your car, difficulty with installation and videos.
I'm gonna put a piece of wood right on top to give it a nice flat, even surface. You don't have to worry about lining things back up and using pole jacks and whatnot. Your sway bar end link, you're gonna do 74-foot-pounds. This is your progressive spring from Eibach. No guide available for this part yet. Now, like I said, I like to thread this nut back in just so we know where it is because that'll get reinstalled once we have our new springs in place. It's not getting lost because that will get reinstalled later. But if yours are looking worse for wear, you might wanna pick them up now while everything is uninstalled.
I'm gonna hook this back that way, even just a little bit takes that pressure off, and now we have a little slack here. And, again, we'll take a closer look later on. We're gonna put the pad underneath of the lower control arm right under the spring. Most people would go straight to the top coil and condense from there, but I'm going straight to the top hat. Now, we'll talk a little bit more about that later on when we compare the Eibach to the factory options. Set your torque wrench at 74-foot-pounds. And, of course, I have air tools, which might be different from what you have at home. You can kind of manipulate the shock that way from the opposite side, insert your bolt in. It's a really tight spot, so you might not be able to fit a socket and a ratchet. Once you have it lined up top, we'll try to line up your bottom half of the strut over the bolt holes. If you're not comfortable tackling this yourself, guys, there's no shame handing it over to a professional to get done properly. You don't have to compress it too much, just enough to get the threads through. All right, so while wedging that pry bar on the other side, we've got that to break loose, pull the sway bar end link out of place. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect. And I gotta say, the Challenger comes with a little more wheel gap than I'd like off the factory line. It's just a complete circle.So it makes it a little more difficult. You can see at the top end here, they're a lot tighter wound together with bigger gaps at the bottom end. It seats right in a very specific order.So with that out of the way, we can grab our spring, and you're gonna install this with the tightly wound coils at the top and the spaced-out coils at the bottom. If your isolators are looking worse for wear, just pick up some new ones. Now, as you remember, we have this bungee cord, so we're gonna have to remove that. For full shipping details please view ourShipping Policy. Please complete the following steps to add to cart: We're sorry. The Eibach logo should be legible. So that's what we're gonna do next. But if you're working freehand, just be really careful. With all that out of the way, the last thing I wanna point out here is your isolators. Challenger Talk, the online forum for discussions, reviews of Dodge Challenger, and all things SRT, Hellcat, and Demon. Now, if you remember, I put our nut right back on the stud. We've got our torque wrench here and 21-millimeter half socket on the end here. So with that rotated out of the way, we have a clear access point. Subscribe: New Challenger videos daily! Just hammer it through, grab your nut, hand-tighten it on the opposite side.
Now, the trick to getting these holes to line up is to take a flathead screwdriver and insert it into the opposite end where the bulk end would come out of. So I'm gonna use a bungee cord. I'm just gonna use that to prop this back so that we're relieving the tension there. Ive heard the Redeye half shafts are more lowering friendly so may be giving those a shot this summer. Once this is disconnected, it may pop completely out, and we don't want it to do that. I'm gonna take you through every single step of the process, starting with the front here and uninstalling your factory stuff. But if you're working freehand, just be really careful. We're just gonna tap away at the hub assembly here just to knock this loose. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. So it all depends on what tools you have on hand, which will translate to how quickly you can get the job done. Set that into place, and tighten it down until you hear the click. One other thing to mention is you may be able to get an Allen key in here. Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my quick overview and install for the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs available for the 15 and newer Scat Pack and Hellcat Challengers. Now, grab an 18 and a 15, and tighten them down. You don't wanna shoot this thing off. Here, what we're gonna do is start by using a hydraulic floor jack to support the weight of the lower control arm right underneath of the spring. So for now, let's disconnect that, and get it out of the way. Loosen that up, and you can just drop the entire tailpipe downward a little bit after unbolting the tailpipe tip if you remember that as well. All right, at this point, we can really slowly start to let down on our hydraulic jack. It's all personal preference, but I find it to be easier just to put the nuts in place to hold the strut up while we work down low.And the last thing we'll do for the assembly is tighten it all down up here. Start that threading by hand to make sure it catches. All right, first step of the reinstallation here is to grab your driver-side strut. AmericanMuscle is proud to offer FREE SHIPPING on any order over $75! It's under a lot of tension and pressure.Once we're off, I like to put a stool underneath it, so it doesn't fall straight out. Extended Warranty. Also, putting pressure on it, pulling down on this, will prevent this from spinning a little bit more than just having it free bird. Now, as you remember, we have this bungee cord, so we're gonna have to remove that. Once you have it lined up, we'll slip the bolt hole in, hammer it into place, and then do our bottom shock bolt. By entering your email, you agree to receive recurring automated marketing emails from AmericanMuscle at the email provided. You can see at the top end here, they're a lot tighter wound together with bigger gaps at the bottom end. Now, before we get started, I wanna point one thing out. Now, ours are looking pretty good, so we're gonna reuse them.But keep in mind, none of them are included in the kit. But we know that these cars come with a pretty big wheel gap from the factory. THROUGHOUT OUR WEBSITE AND PRODUCT CATALOG THESE TERMS ARE USED FOR IDENTIFICATION PURPOSES ONLY. All right, now, we can insert our spring making sure the bottom coil seats where we want it to. There's a couple of them throughout this line, just pull them off we'll reconnect them later. All right, once you get that bolt hole lined up, grab your bolt, your stock bolt, set it into place. You may need to use a hammer to tap it back in.All right, with the bolt all the way through to the other side, grab your 18-millimeter nut, thread it on by hand. Next step, we're gonna remove the strut bolt on the bottom of our strut holding into our lower control arm. Now, in order to do that, we're gonna need an 18-millimeter short socket to get this off. So what do you say we get to it? Now that we have this supported, what we're gonna do is disconnect our upper control arm from the hub assembly. And I gotta say, the Challenger comes with a little more wheel gap than I'd like off the factory line. Now, here, I'm gonna pop off our factory isolators. Now, the goal here to reinstall our spring is to basically get just enough thread through the top that we can put the nut on.We can gun it on from there, and torque it down. We've got our torque wrench here and 21-millimeter half socket on the end here. You wanna make sure you're not putting any tension on this once the suspension starts to droop down when we disconnect the upper control arm. So I'm gonna get my pry bar on the upper control arm, air tools, trying to get in on that bolt there. All right, once you get that bolt hole lined up, grab your bolt, your stock bolt, set it into place. Now, the factory springs are linear, and your new Eibach Springs are progressive. Then the next step, all you have to support it is to get your bottom shock bolt out. This is a neat trick that might help you out here. Came across this site and they have everything I need. Those come with a little bit of factory rake off the line here. Read our Privacy Policy, Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code. All right, at this point, we have the tension taken off the spring, 18 socket here right on top of the nut. So progressive springs are gonna have that sportier feel. I'm gonna show you a couple of the steps here. You may look into these, you can pick your height. We're gonna put the pad underneath of the lower control arm right under the spring. So let's get that disconnected. And I'll show you guys why this matters. Grab a 13-millimeter socket, and remove the three nuts holding this in place. You're getting that aggressive, lowered muscle car stance. Use our 13 bolt to tighten this back down to the frame rail. We still have our factory springs on our built-in strut, and we have to get those off in order to get our Eibach one on. Free 2-3 Day Delivery on most items, see Product Page for details. Now, another big change comes in with the spring rate. Tap here to get it to dislodge, then we'll pry down, remove it, and disconnect them. The Eibach logo should be legible. Comes With a Million Mile Warranty. So it all depends on what tools you have on hand, which will translate to how quickly you can get the job done. Its a relatively modest drop, but it comes with all the advantages including the right amount of clearance on the fenders and wheels.
You'll see it only rotates in one way. We'll be able to pull it out. All right, switch over to an 18 socket.So what do you say we start the install on the rear? Notification Sent Via Email. You just unbolt it from the chassis, lower it down, pop this out. Now the top portion, there's a couple of different ways to skin the cat here. With the whole thing out, take the strut hat right off with the boot, spring comes out, and we can set this aside. It gives you a flat solid surface to work with. We're gonna go ahead, and slip this into place. On the end, that'll have a seat on that lower isolator we just installed. You wanna have a wide variety of tools on deck. Now, it can be a little tricky. Now, speaking of lowering the vehicle, 1.1 inches in the front, 1.2 inches in the rear is what you can expect, effectively leveling out that vehicle. This set of Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are designed for 2015-2022 Scat Pack, SRT 392and Hellcat Dodge Challenger models. So, you wanna do that while it is still compressed. Coverage. If you're not using air tools, it will be a little bit more difficult simply because this is extremely tight and all of the tension between them is, you know, keeping it on, as well as the fact that the bushing in here likes to spin as well. That'll give us a little bit more of a headache-free install, putting our new Eibach Springs into place. First thing we're gonna do is take the hydraulic jack. Now, if you start running into the issue that I'm running into where the bushing is just continually spinning in the sway bar end link, it's gonna make it hard to pop this nut out of place.
So we're gonna tackle our sway bar end link, we're gonna tackle the bottom strut bolt, and we're gonna tackle the upper controller arm. I'm gonna wrap it around one time, and then just, obviously, hook it anywhere you want, just not on the strut be because we will be removing that. With all of that out of the way, the first step is to grab a 21-millimeter socket. Most people would go straight to the top coil and condense from there, but I'm going straight to the top hat. And we're gonna unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe at the back. You might have to adjust the position and the angle of that control arm. We don't wanna tighten it down too much just yet. It has a notch up at the top that has a specific point that you're gonna install it in right on that lower control arm pocket.
These Eibach Springs will provide a front drop of 1.10 inches and rear drop of 1.20 inches.
Next step is our sway bar end link. On the end, that'll have a seat on that lower isolator we just installed. So grab an 18 socket, put it on the nut, and a 15 wrench or socket, and put it on the bolt head.All right, for the next bolt here connecting our lower control arm to the frame, what we're gonna do is use a 15-millimeter wrench for the bolt head and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for the opposite side, for the nut.
I'm gonna put a piece of wood right on top to give it a nice flat, even surface. You don't have to worry about lining things back up and using pole jacks and whatnot. Your sway bar end link, you're gonna do 74-foot-pounds. This is your progressive spring from Eibach. No guide available for this part yet. Now, like I said, I like to thread this nut back in just so we know where it is because that'll get reinstalled once we have our new springs in place. It's not getting lost because that will get reinstalled later. But if yours are looking worse for wear, you might wanna pick them up now while everything is uninstalled. I'm gonna hook this back that way, even just a little bit takes that pressure off, and now we have a little slack here. And, again, we'll take a closer look later on. We're gonna put the pad underneath of the lower control arm right under the spring. Most people would go straight to the top coil and condense from there, but I'm going straight to the top hat. Now, we'll talk a little bit more about that later on when we compare the Eibach to the factory options. Set your torque wrench at 74-foot-pounds. And, of course, I have air tools, which might be different from what you have at home. You can kind of manipulate the shock that way from the opposite side, insert your bolt in. It's a really tight spot, so you might not be able to fit a socket and a ratchet. Once you have it lined up top, we'll try to line up your bottom half of the strut over the bolt holes. If you're not comfortable tackling this yourself, guys, there's no shame handing it over to a professional to get done properly. You don't have to compress it too much, just enough to get the threads through. All right, so while wedging that pry bar on the other side, we've got that to break loose, pull the sway bar end link out of place. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect. And I gotta say, the Challenger comes with a little more wheel gap than I'd like off the factory line. It's just a complete circle.So it makes it a little more difficult. You can see at the top end here, they're a lot tighter wound together with bigger gaps at the bottom end. It seats right in a very specific order.So with that out of the way, we can grab our spring, and you're gonna install this with the tightly wound coils at the top and the spaced-out coils at the bottom. If your isolators are looking worse for wear, just pick up some new ones. Now, as you remember, we have this bungee cord, so we're gonna have to remove that. For full shipping details please view ourShipping Policy. Please complete the following steps to add to cart: We're sorry. The Eibach logo should be legible. So that's what we're gonna do next. But if you're working freehand, just be really careful. With all that out of the way, the last thing I wanna point out here is your isolators. Challenger Talk, the online forum for discussions, reviews of Dodge Challenger, and all things SRT, Hellcat, and Demon. Now, if you remember, I put our nut right back on the stud. We've got our torque wrench here and 21-millimeter half socket on the end here. So with that rotated out of the way, we have a clear access point. Subscribe: New Challenger videos daily! Just hammer it through, grab your nut, hand-tighten it on the opposite side.
Now, the trick to getting these holes to line up is to take a flathead screwdriver and insert it into the opposite end where the bulk end would come out of. So I'm gonna use a bungee cord. I'm just gonna use that to prop this back so that we're relieving the tension there. Ive heard the Redeye half shafts are more lowering friendly so may be giving those a shot this summer. Once this is disconnected, it may pop completely out, and we don't want it to do that. I'm gonna take you through every single step of the process, starting with the front here and uninstalling your factory stuff. But if you're working freehand, just be really careful. We're just gonna tap away at the hub assembly here just to knock this loose. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. So it all depends on what tools you have on hand, which will translate to how quickly you can get the job done. Set that into place, and tighten it down until you hear the click. One other thing to mention is you may be able to get an Allen key in here. Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my quick overview and install for the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs available for the 15 and newer Scat Pack and Hellcat Challengers. Now, grab an 18 and a 15, and tighten them down. You don't wanna shoot this thing off. Here, what we're gonna do is start by using a hydraulic floor jack to support the weight of the lower control arm right underneath of the spring. So for now, let's disconnect that, and get it out of the way. Loosen that up, and you can just drop the entire tailpipe downward a little bit after unbolting the tailpipe tip if you remember that as well. All right, at this point, we can really slowly start to let down on our hydraulic jack. It's all personal preference, but I find it to be easier just to put the nuts in place to hold the strut up while we work down low.And the last thing we'll do for the assembly is tighten it all down up here. Start that threading by hand to make sure it catches. All right, first step of the reinstallation here is to grab your driver-side strut. AmericanMuscle is proud to offer FREE SHIPPING on any order over $75! It's under a lot of tension and pressure.Once we're off, I like to put a stool underneath it, so it doesn't fall straight out. Extended Warranty. Also, putting pressure on it, pulling down on this, will prevent this from spinning a little bit more than just having it free bird. Now, as you remember, we have this bungee cord, so we're gonna have to remove that. Once you have it lined up, we'll slip the bolt hole in, hammer it into place, and then do our bottom shock bolt. By entering your email, you agree to receive recurring automated marketing emails from AmericanMuscle at the email provided. You can see at the top end here, they're a lot tighter wound together with bigger gaps at the bottom end. Now, before we get started, I wanna point one thing out. Now, ours are looking pretty good, so we're gonna reuse them.But keep in mind, none of them are included in the kit. But we know that these cars come with a pretty big wheel gap from the factory. THROUGHOUT OUR WEBSITE AND PRODUCT CATALOG THESE TERMS ARE USED FOR IDENTIFICATION PURPOSES ONLY. All right, now, we can insert our spring making sure the bottom coil seats where we want it to. There's a couple of them throughout this line, just pull them off we'll reconnect them later. All right, once you get that bolt hole lined up, grab your bolt, your stock bolt, set it into place. You may need to use a hammer to tap it back in.All right, with the bolt all the way through to the other side, grab your 18-millimeter nut, thread it on by hand. Next step, we're gonna remove the strut bolt on the bottom of our strut holding into our lower control arm. Now, in order to do that, we're gonna need an 18-millimeter short socket to get this off. So what do you say we get to it? Now that we have this supported, what we're gonna do is disconnect our upper control arm from the hub assembly. And I gotta say, the Challenger comes with a little more wheel gap than I'd like off the factory line. Now, here, I'm gonna pop off our factory isolators. Now, the goal here to reinstall our spring is to basically get just enough thread through the top that we can put the nut on.We can gun it on from there, and torque it down. We've got our torque wrench here and 21-millimeter half socket on the end here. You wanna make sure you're not putting any tension on this once the suspension starts to droop down when we disconnect the upper control arm. So I'm gonna get my pry bar on the upper control arm, air tools, trying to get in on that bolt there. All right, once you get that bolt hole lined up, grab your bolt, your stock bolt, set it into place. Now, the factory springs are linear, and your new Eibach Springs are progressive. Then the next step, all you have to support it is to get your bottom shock bolt out. This is a neat trick that might help you out here. Came across this site and they have everything I need. Those come with a little bit of factory rake off the line here. Read our Privacy Policy, Sorry, please enter a valid US or CA postal code. All right, at this point, we have the tension taken off the spring, 18 socket here right on top of the nut. So progressive springs are gonna have that sportier feel. I'm gonna show you a couple of the steps here. You may look into these, you can pick your height. We're gonna put the pad underneath of the lower control arm right under the spring. So let's get that disconnected. And I'll show you guys why this matters. Grab a 13-millimeter socket, and remove the three nuts holding this in place. You're getting that aggressive, lowered muscle car stance. Use our 13 bolt to tighten this back down to the frame rail. We still have our factory springs on our built-in strut, and we have to get those off in order to get our Eibach one on. Free 2-3 Day Delivery on most items, see Product Page for details. Now, another big change comes in with the spring rate. Tap here to get it to dislodge, then we'll pry down, remove it, and disconnect them. The Eibach logo should be legible. Comes With a Million Mile Warranty. So it all depends on what tools you have on hand, which will translate to how quickly you can get the job done. Its a relatively modest drop, but it comes with all the advantages including the right amount of clearance on the fenders and wheels.
You'll see it only rotates in one way. We'll be able to pull it out. All right, switch over to an 18 socket.So what do you say we start the install on the rear? Notification Sent Via Email. You just unbolt it from the chassis, lower it down, pop this out. Now the top portion, there's a couple of different ways to skin the cat here. With the whole thing out, take the strut hat right off with the boot, spring comes out, and we can set this aside. It gives you a flat solid surface to work with. We're gonna go ahead, and slip this into place. On the end, that'll have a seat on that lower isolator we just installed. You wanna have a wide variety of tools on deck. Now, it can be a little tricky. Now, speaking of lowering the vehicle, 1.1 inches in the front, 1.2 inches in the rear is what you can expect, effectively leveling out that vehicle. This set of Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs are designed for 2015-2022 Scat Pack, SRT 392and Hellcat Dodge Challenger models. So, you wanna do that while it is still compressed. Coverage. If you're not using air tools, it will be a little bit more difficult simply because this is extremely tight and all of the tension between them is, you know, keeping it on, as well as the fact that the bushing in here likes to spin as well. That'll give us a little bit more of a headache-free install, putting our new Eibach Springs into place. First thing we're gonna do is take the hydraulic jack. Now, if you start running into the issue that I'm running into where the bushing is just continually spinning in the sway bar end link, it's gonna make it hard to pop this nut out of place.
So we're gonna tackle our sway bar end link, we're gonna tackle the bottom strut bolt, and we're gonna tackle the upper controller arm. I'm gonna wrap it around one time, and then just, obviously, hook it anywhere you want, just not on the strut be because we will be removing that. With all of that out of the way, the first step is to grab a 21-millimeter socket. Most people would go straight to the top coil and condense from there, but I'm going straight to the top hat. And we're gonna unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe at the back. You might have to adjust the position and the angle of that control arm. We don't wanna tighten it down too much just yet. It has a notch up at the top that has a specific point that you're gonna install it in right on that lower control arm pocket.
These Eibach Springs will provide a front drop of 1.10 inches and rear drop of 1.20 inches.
Next step is our sway bar end link. On the end, that'll have a seat on that lower isolator we just installed. So grab an 18 socket, put it on the nut, and a 15 wrench or socket, and put it on the bolt head.All right, for the next bolt here connecting our lower control arm to the frame, what we're gonna do is use a 15-millimeter wrench for the bolt head and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for the opposite side, for the nut.