Those both look pretty rare or expensive.
They are superficially similar to Mini-PV terminals but the latch is lower on the housing and they are designed for a double D crimp die.
If you have the pistol grip hand tool (not the cheap T shaped push tool) you can make cables really fast, with the right parts you can daisy chain. You also get a 1-year warranty and a great build quality with this wire crimper. Bloody awesome page. Costs around $350 brand new. Centre: Crimped by Generic tool (HT-225D), Where large numbers of connectors are terminated by hand crimping is easier, In applications of significant mechanical stress crimped terminations are more robust. Will have to keep looking. by Member #125169 Beyond that, no point to bother with C-Grid III, is there? in male housings they dont flop around risking bending on mating. Knoweasys wire crimper is one of the only few options that come as a kit included with accessories. Any difference in electronegativity (in the galvanic series) greater than 0.15V is considered to be prone to corrosion unless in a controlled environment, in which case the difference can be as high as 0.5V. What is the story with XHB connectors like this?
Your email address will not be published. It's very easy for something to shift a little out of place which spoils the crimp. To be more precise, other than the wire crimper, you also get a total of 700 wire terminal connectors included in the box. Molex / TE/ Amphenol / JST will last a lot longer than no-brand contacts. On the left a cross section of a gas tight crimp, typical from a manufacturer original tool. The difference being the following on the data sheet for the noted part numbers: https://cdn.amphenol-icc.com/media/wysiwyg/files/drawing/75653.pdf, 1) Data sheet notes the base of the tip has a wings/barbs (images dont have this). There are of course many other possible combinations. quick disconnect). The AWG 18 tool also has a 0.75mm die with barely a fag paper of difference. The housing is similar to the generic Mini-PV type except that the latch is lower on the housing and some have a Futaba style polarization key (a lot of companies dont bother with the key because the positive lead is in the middle with the signal and ground on either side so if you plug something in backwards it merely doesnt work). wires crimp connect crimping connectors tool standard use crimper stripper
With the Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 pins, do you use the PA-09? Wish Lists Did not fit the type of pins I wanted to use with them, Great tool, took a little trial and error, Good for reducing Repetitive Stress; doesn't quite work sometimes for my 22 gauge pins.
The package comes with a set of instructions on how to operate along with illustrations. by Member #640496
The physical wire typically only is marked as AWG Every connector system ever conceived has its own official crimp tool, in most cases the cost of these is over and above what any hobbyist could and would want to pay for a crimp tool. I wish the tool had come with a good set of instructions or that the Sparkfun site had a good video showing the proper technique. CEyF]0:c4\~K'W^1M`B+1 ~s}#g/0r')%>64"~xS_3bheh5TDRX7s/qiO` xw; endstream endobj 4926 0 obj <>stream On the down side, I'm using them to crimp 22 gauge pins onto 22 gauge hookup wire, and occasionally the pin gets stuck in the pliers. And since both my PSU pins and motherboard power pins are non-gold plated (probably Tin, based on the color), Im concerned that if I go with gold-plated terminals on my power cables, that means I will have gold-to-tin connections and it may make the oxidation/corrosion worse versus all tin-plated cables connecting to tin-plated PSU/motherboard power pins. They also require different housings and a different crimp tool (Daniels M310). blade or spade connectors female on the socket side, arranged four in a row, with the blade recepticles parallel, like | | | |. The only difference I can see in the data sheets is the grounding pin is a little bit heavier, and lists plating min.
Then, you can remove the tab after it is crimped. Quite similar to Mini-PV but has different crimp tool, housings and contacts. Theyre all over Amazon and elsewhere: https://smile.amazon.com/IWISS-AM-10-Pneumatic-Terminals-Ferrules/dp/B00K0EQ6W2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=19HO6XJRT8ZLA&keywords=pneumatic+crimper+wire+crimping+machine&qid=1638464159&sprefix=wire+crimper+pneumat%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-4. The crenels are clearly meant for this purpose because when you push the edge of the terminal all the way to the bottom of the crenel the tab pops into place. Short and long handles available. It does that to waste the excess length on the insulation crimp as these terminals are too large for this wire size. crimp every time, Quality tools for long-lasting and For the most part, headers and housings mate and latch fairly well across brands. It has two O shaped crimping dies, something that is rarely seen on generic tools. (702) 262-6648 Harwins type is cloned by Chinese manufacturers and is significantly more common. > Very similar to the SL series mentioned above, except comes in a two row configurations. Insulated Terminals, Pressmaster KKB-0360 Ergonomic Tool 22-10 Ga. Non-Insulated Terminal, Pressmaster KRB-0560 Ergonomic Tool 22-10 Ga. Non-Insulated Open Barrel Terminals, Pressmaster CSA-0760 Ergonomic Economical Short Handle Tool 22-10 Ga. A commonly used heavy (50 amp) power connector. The male side of the connector has a shroud that snaps over the housing. Quite handy when in situations when mating a non-IDC cable assembly to a shrouded IDC header. The aptly number 11-01-0209 is the predecessor for the 63811-8800 I believe Ive never seen it on the used market. Here are three main considerations when selecting a wire crimping tool: Investing in all of the individual electrical wiring tools becomes very expensive if your job requires crimping a variety of electrical connector sizes, barrels and types. There is a swag of different tools for E.I. You will come across a Buying Guide for the best wire crimpers allowing you to easily buy the perfect one. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20211208084959&SearchText=semi+automatic+crimping+machine. Sargent CT 1026 for the superseal and CT 1027 for D-Subs. The dies seem to be precise enough to get the job done and the ratchet mechanism works perfectly. (There seems to be no information on the SN-48B.). Ill buy the PCB mount housings separately depending on what my PCBs ending up looking like. Here is why: 1) Electronics crimp tools are always marked as AWG or AWG/CSA. Their professional grade crimping tool comes with efficient ratcheting mechanism which ensures uniform solid crimps. The terminals are too tiny.
One of our customers has made a very nice video tutorial that talks about how to make custom cables with our pre-crimped wires and with self-crimped wires. How quality of crimps for JST PH 2.0 from WC-240 compared with something like SN-02BM/SN-01BM/SN-2549? Whatever you set it to, you arent going to get a pull. Much better than spending $150-400 for each different style of connector. Molex have recently added an AWG 18 option to Micro-Fit, which I very much welcome however note that a new tool, and different contacts is required. | The difference is that it has a simpler design for the terminal locator and it does a double D insulation crimp instead of an overlap crimp. The locator is a gate style, the one I had needed the adjustment nut on this gate to be tightened slightly as it was a bit sloppy. I call these TYU connectors due to the TYU printed on many of the housings however I suspect that they are made by several different manufactures. Ive also seen them in other unusual applications such as the connector on the DC end of the plug pack for HP Printers and Cisco routers. https://www.molex.com/molex/search/partSearch?pQuery=&sType=s&query=2759, https://www.molex.com/molex/search/partSearch?pQuery=&sType=s&query=6459, The obvious difference jumping out at me is Brass vs Phosphor Bronze body material. And just as you would expect, these 3 crimping cavities allow you to get decent compatibility between multiple sizes between AWG 10 and AWG 22. If youve ever found yourself trying to remove already inserted contacts, youll appreciate one. Theyre not interchangeable. Short and long handles available. Before I get started, lets cover this one briefly with a simple diagram: When crimped properly, the strands remain individual even upon entering the insulation crimp, making the chances of strands breaking low. https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/manufacturers/molex/products/molex-mini-fit-hmc-femail-terminals.html. They remain in full production to this day, for some reason or other. Helped me to figure out which connector pins to purchase for a 24-pin Molex 5559 power connector (motherboard) and how to crimp them (Ill use the Hozan 707 tool). AMP (now TE) themselves refer to them as Commercial Mate-n-Lok a stupid name. Half measures arent generally a good idea when youre dealing with something that carries the kind of power these are designed for.
Recommended if you work with larger contacts. Took me a while to find info on them, and Im not sure what pins or crimpers they need. stripper crimping engineer molex awg On this page Ill cover some of the most common connectors in use today, and detail crimping/tooling considerations. crimp pex
The reason why is that round crimp terminal pins can slide sideways out from between the two contacts because the end of the connector box on the high contact force terminals are open at the top and bottom. A exceptionally rare example of a two row wire-to-wire connector system. Microfit, Mini-Fit Jr, E.I., KK .156, Mate-n-Lok, .187 FASTON, JST PH. Ok so right after writing my comment I thought Id try the same thing out with knock-off JST SM terminals on 0,25mm wire and it had the same effect!
They are superficially similar to Mini-PV terminals but the latch is lower on the housing and they are designed for a double D crimp die.

Your email address will not be published. It's very easy for something to shift a little out of place which spoils the crimp. To be more precise, other than the wire crimper, you also get a total of 700 wire terminal connectors included in the box. Molex / TE/ Amphenol / JST will last a lot longer than no-brand contacts. On the left a cross section of a gas tight crimp, typical from a manufacturer original tool. The difference being the following on the data sheet for the noted part numbers: https://cdn.amphenol-icc.com/media/wysiwyg/files/drawing/75653.pdf, 1) Data sheet notes the base of the tip has a wings/barbs (images dont have this). There are of course many other possible combinations. quick disconnect). The AWG 18 tool also has a 0.75mm die with barely a fag paper of difference. The housing is similar to the generic Mini-PV type except that the latch is lower on the housing and some have a Futaba style polarization key (a lot of companies dont bother with the key because the positive lead is in the middle with the signal and ground on either side so if you plug something in backwards it merely doesnt work). wires crimp connect crimping connectors tool standard use crimper stripper

The package comes with a set of instructions on how to operate along with illustrations. by Member #640496
The physical wire typically only is marked as AWG Every connector system ever conceived has its own official crimp tool, in most cases the cost of these is over and above what any hobbyist could and would want to pay for a crimp tool. I wish the tool had come with a good set of instructions or that the Sparkfun site had a good video showing the proper technique. CEyF]0:c4\~K'W^1M`B+1 ~s}#g/0r')%>64"~xS_3bheh5TDRX7s/qiO` xw; endstream endobj 4926 0 obj <>stream On the down side, I'm using them to crimp 22 gauge pins onto 22 gauge hookup wire, and occasionally the pin gets stuck in the pliers. And since both my PSU pins and motherboard power pins are non-gold plated (probably Tin, based on the color), Im concerned that if I go with gold-plated terminals on my power cables, that means I will have gold-to-tin connections and it may make the oxidation/corrosion worse versus all tin-plated cables connecting to tin-plated PSU/motherboard power pins. They also require different housings and a different crimp tool (Daniels M310). blade or spade connectors female on the socket side, arranged four in a row, with the blade recepticles parallel, like | | | |. The only difference I can see in the data sheets is the grounding pin is a little bit heavier, and lists plating min.
Then, you can remove the tab after it is crimped. Quite similar to Mini-PV but has different crimp tool, housings and contacts. Theyre all over Amazon and elsewhere: https://smile.amazon.com/IWISS-AM-10-Pneumatic-Terminals-Ferrules/dp/B00K0EQ6W2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=19HO6XJRT8ZLA&keywords=pneumatic+crimper+wire+crimping+machine&qid=1638464159&sprefix=wire+crimper+pneumat%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-4. The crenels are clearly meant for this purpose because when you push the edge of the terminal all the way to the bottom of the crenel the tab pops into place. Short and long handles available. It does that to waste the excess length on the insulation crimp as these terminals are too large for this wire size. crimp every time, Quality tools for long-lasting and For the most part, headers and housings mate and latch fairly well across brands. It has two O shaped crimping dies, something that is rarely seen on generic tools. (702) 262-6648 Harwins type is cloned by Chinese manufacturers and is significantly more common. > Very similar to the SL series mentioned above, except comes in a two row configurations. Insulated Terminals, Pressmaster KKB-0360 Ergonomic Tool 22-10 Ga. Non-Insulated Terminal, Pressmaster KRB-0560 Ergonomic Tool 22-10 Ga. Non-Insulated Open Barrel Terminals, Pressmaster CSA-0760 Ergonomic Economical Short Handle Tool 22-10 Ga. A commonly used heavy (50 amp) power connector. The male side of the connector has a shroud that snaps over the housing. Quite handy when in situations when mating a non-IDC cable assembly to a shrouded IDC header. The aptly number 11-01-0209 is the predecessor for the 63811-8800 I believe Ive never seen it on the used market. Here are three main considerations when selecting a wire crimping tool: Investing in all of the individual electrical wiring tools becomes very expensive if your job requires crimping a variety of electrical connector sizes, barrels and types. There is a swag of different tools for E.I. You will come across a Buying Guide for the best wire crimpers allowing you to easily buy the perfect one. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20211208084959&SearchText=semi+automatic+crimping+machine. Sargent CT 1026 for the superseal and CT 1027 for D-Subs. The dies seem to be precise enough to get the job done and the ratchet mechanism works perfectly. (There seems to be no information on the SN-48B.). Ill buy the PCB mount housings separately depending on what my PCBs ending up looking like. Here is why: 1) Electronics crimp tools are always marked as AWG or AWG/CSA. Their professional grade crimping tool comes with efficient ratcheting mechanism which ensures uniform solid crimps. The terminals are too tiny.
One of our customers has made a very nice video tutorial that talks about how to make custom cables with our pre-crimped wires and with self-crimped wires. How quality of crimps for JST PH 2.0 from WC-240 compared with something like SN-02BM/SN-01BM/SN-2549? Whatever you set it to, you arent going to get a pull. Much better than spending $150-400 for each different style of connector. Molex have recently added an AWG 18 option to Micro-Fit, which I very much welcome however note that a new tool, and different contacts is required. | The difference is that it has a simpler design for the terminal locator and it does a double D insulation crimp instead of an overlap crimp. The locator is a gate style, the one I had needed the adjustment nut on this gate to be tightened slightly as it was a bit sloppy. I call these TYU connectors due to the TYU printed on many of the housings however I suspect that they are made by several different manufactures. Ive also seen them in other unusual applications such as the connector on the DC end of the plug pack for HP Printers and Cisco routers. https://www.molex.com/molex/search/partSearch?pQuery=&sType=s&query=2759, https://www.molex.com/molex/search/partSearch?pQuery=&sType=s&query=6459, The obvious difference jumping out at me is Brass vs Phosphor Bronze body material. And just as you would expect, these 3 crimping cavities allow you to get decent compatibility between multiple sizes between AWG 10 and AWG 22. If youve ever found yourself trying to remove already inserted contacts, youll appreciate one. Theyre not interchangeable. Short and long handles available. Before I get started, lets cover this one briefly with a simple diagram: When crimped properly, the strands remain individual even upon entering the insulation crimp, making the chances of strands breaking low. https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/manufacturers/molex/products/molex-mini-fit-hmc-femail-terminals.html. They remain in full production to this day, for some reason or other. Helped me to figure out which connector pins to purchase for a 24-pin Molex 5559 power connector (motherboard) and how to crimp them (Ill use the Hozan 707 tool). AMP (now TE) themselves refer to them as Commercial Mate-n-Lok a stupid name. Half measures arent generally a good idea when youre dealing with something that carries the kind of power these are designed for.
Recommended if you work with larger contacts. Took me a while to find info on them, and Im not sure what pins or crimpers they need. stripper crimping engineer molex awg On this page Ill cover some of the most common connectors in use today, and detail crimping/tooling considerations. crimp pex
The reason why is that round crimp terminal pins can slide sideways out from between the two contacts because the end of the connector box on the high contact force terminals are open at the top and bottom. A exceptionally rare example of a two row wire-to-wire connector system. Microfit, Mini-Fit Jr, E.I., KK .156, Mate-n-Lok, .187 FASTON, JST PH. Ok so right after writing my comment I thought Id try the same thing out with knock-off JST SM terminals on 0,25mm wire and it had the same effect!