Take my writings with a grain of salt, though, because I'm very new to resin printing. 
your print). I also want my parts to be strong. Specifically degreasers are supposed to work well if you use them in an ultrasonic cleaner. daubers colourise methods Parts should be washed before removing supports. Replied
It still seems to remove most of the uncured goo. Ive been more careful about saving IPA, says Kevin Gautier, business development at Formlabs. As Im printing with a 50/50 mix of Elegoo Rapid Grey and Siraya Blu this also was not an option for me. Formlabs does not officially recommend any of the following, but some customers have shared with us their experience using other potentially available solvents. I still think that for the price it is a valid alternative, and since the results are sufficiently good, I#ll stick to it until the actual order is finished. inks solvent ink based water latex staedtler lumocolor heater The water, glycerin, or mineral oil helps exclude oxygen from the surface of your printed part as you post cure, resulting in a tack-free well-cured surface. Isopropyl alcohol is the obvious answer, but when it is in short supply what are my alternatives. Thanks for the report. However, you may have experienced the global shortage of IPA wash solvent due to COVID-19 or your facility may be unable to use IPA due to flammability concerns or local restrictions. Knows he knows nothing. My ultrasonic was set to 35C and 3 minutes. When creating designs with narrow channels, such as. Failing to properly wash parts will leave the parts sticky and unseemly, so post-processing is vital to successful 3D printing. The ultrasonic cleaner should work even if I need to use IPA or methylated spirits so I dont feel this is a wasted purchase. I'm happy I'm seeing progress, but still not satisfied, especially with all the extra effort I'm having to do compared to before. After the first failure, you changed two variables, i.e., you doubled the amount of ultrasonic time from a single 5-minute bath to two 5-minute baths, and you also increased the bath temperature from ~22 C to 50 C. Have you tried experimenting whether it was the temperature increase that did the trick, or was it the second bath that fixed it? Have you got a Polish shop nearby? There's no additional chemical reaction needed to take place that alcohol would execute for you, which is what I had assumed: That it was a key component to the process when it is'nt. 
Preheat to 30C, dry 10 min, cure 10 min. Methylated spirits should be available in most hardware stores. Once the timer has stopped remove the basket and inspect your prints. Best of luck in the hobby and thanks for reading. Then use a sealed plastic bag with your print in the alcohol in that. That "Frosch" cleaner does a decent enough job, though I could not run a reasonable survey yet, because I'm in the middle of a production run. Recent Posts Unread Posts Tags, Forum Icons:
I again cured them submerged in clean water for 5 minutes.This time there are no glossy areas, even in the very detailed crevices of the characters faces or the grooves in the bases. Maybe your brother is working with some fancy water soluble resins but the common stuff you get with printers will not dissolve in water. Germicidal is UV-C which isnt what most resin cures at. Of course I used my trusty Anycubic Photon. 
https://monocure3d.com.au/product-category/resinaway-cleaner/. Location Halifax UK, Just an idea: Maybe you can use it to clean the MK2/MK3/Mini sheets? epoxy momalwaysfindsout There is also Yellow Magic, again I've no experience with it but seems to be popular at the professional level. Any ideas on where to source the basket for the CW1? There has been some discussion in the Formlabs forum about TPA or TPE as a less-volatile cleaning agent. Which led to the next question I posed: Would it be possible to just put the print into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water? Learn more about our use of cookies: Can I Clean My Resin Prints Without Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)? For the resin tainted solution I do the same thing as I used to with IPA. That was really what spurred me to use heat in the first place. I was just a bit over optimistic about the resin setting down after a while. 5 minutes in my UV box and they are ready for inspection. I scanned through their safety sheet and tried out different cleaning agents. If you are like me then youve noticed that the coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic has caused a massive shortage of IPA. The other thing I may try is Methyl Hydrate (aka methyl alcohol, methanol, wood alcohol) it is readily available here in hardware stores, at an economic price, I'm just not sure if it's a direct replacement for IPA or Ethanol. Asking because I was thinking of getting a cheap ultrasonic watch cleaner and using it with Mean Green. My local hardware store was sadly out of stock when I went searching. Take off minis from built plate and dunk rinse in tub 2 of water. Im calling this test a failure. I again cleaned the minis for 5 minutes. This is to simply separate the monomer (liquid state of the resin) from the polymer (solid state i.e. Rinsing, washing, and curing allows you to produce highly functional, detailed parts and finish your parts effectively. I am wondering if there are alternatives to this that could more easily evaporate off when done. I just started using my SL1 and opted to use "Mean Green" for starters. Some parts may require two washes in IPA or TPM to be fully clean. Sorry to hear that Flash Cleaner in the Anycubic wash and cure station isnt working. Not bad but it may be a bit much for the CW1. The UV glue from your screen protector would be in the same range as the resin so good call there. Minis on larger surface areas came out much better, but top surface of base (assuming I didn't scrub enough) and deep creases still shiny/showing residue. nexa3d printers xclean solvent It does need a good rinse with water afterward.
I use Mr. Clean, the neon green stuff, and it works great! I personally dont want to be scrubbing my delicate prints pre curing as damaging a print means a complete redo and a lot of my models have fine bits that would break off. Please contact by calling their Sales & Customer Service U.S. Toll Free number: 1-800-531-7106. What issues did you have with your cure process? It turns out that IPA is not necessary to clean a resin 3D print if you have the right equipment.
polyamide cxa soluble biotech hubei that would perform the same job". Finding an alternatives to IPA right now is difficult, and priced extraordinarily high if you do. How To Replace The Ender 3 Main Board With A Silent 32 Bit Board, Automated Coronavirus (COVID-19) Testing Technologies, How to Wire and Install Electronics for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 6, How to Assemble the Afterburner Toolhead for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 5, How to Assemble the Gantry for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 4, How to Assemble the Z-Motion System for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 3. It does not have a warming function. In case you cannot acquire IPA, tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM) is a tested alternative for parts printed with non-biocompatible Formlabs resins. Parts should be moved around in the solvent as well as soaked for optimal cleaning. Hot Brand new to the resin printing scene, I've been printing in PLA for almost a year and wanted to print some amazing ingredients detailed minis for my YouTube channel and painting service, so chose the Anycubic Photon (just arrived!)
Excellent article Ive been trying to find a good cleaning process and Ive been switching between testing out mean green, purple power, 99% IPA, and 90% IPA. Thet stuff is labelled "Bio". A soft bristled toothbrush can also help in those situations. Keiran quick questions about disposal/clean uphow did you clean out the basin of the ultrasonic cleaner and what did you do with the resin tainted mean green liquid? Minis better on large flat areas (like shields), but majority of minis still shiny, with residue in creases. I'm also trying to put it back in the bottle and radiate it with UV. isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM), Formlabs recommends washing SLA parts with. Most of the resins I'll be using only require 30 seconds of rinse time. I've used it to make alcohol ink and clean all kind of things. My first attempt at cleaning my prints was to print out some Star Wars minis I had designed with my 50/50 mixture of Siraya Blu and Elegoo Rapid Grey resin. If you use a water washable resin then supposedly you can just use water. Forum contains no unread posts Lots of LED strips or lamps at that range available as well so if you find you dont like the form factor of that one (maybe it doesnt fit larger prints well or something) then there are some cheap alternatives to go for. Im in the uk also and this looks like a great solution. Please let me know about the results. After I removed them from the build plate I cleaned them in room temperature Mean Green in the ultrasonic cleaner for 5 minutes. Using the Photons test print (the lattice cube), cleaning results were excellent. Formlabs have a couple of good posts on it: https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Washing-prints-with-TPM?language=en_US, https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Tripropylene-glycol-monomethyl-ether-TPM?language=en_US, I'm in the UK and I purchased it from here: https://www.britishchemicalproducts.co.uk/product.asp?s=qvcn8v2090584&strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=323&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1. If using heat set the temperature and wait for it to equilibrate. So it would seem that alcohol is really only used because it's convenient to not need to dry it off ~ especially so should your print have narrow nooks and crannies unreachable with a cloth had you just used water. Active By browsing our website, you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. I dont know yet how many build plates I can do in a single batch of Mean Green before it needs to be changed out. I have a can of it that I got from the hardware store in the pain section which I use in my alcohol burner that I use to tip new arrows. When handling wash solvents, always consult the safety data sheet (SDS) from the supplier as the primary source of information and ensure appropriate ventilation when handling. It seems to become saturated after a few uses (about 5 cleaning runs of quite big prints), but it is hard to judge, because the solution becomes opaque after two of three runs. Just wanted to confirm something. If you end up going with a room temperature cleaning Id love to hear how that worked out and if you needed to do anything differently. My favourite so far is named "Frosch Spiritus Glas-Reiniger" (1,65 per liter). Everything was still warm from the cleaning so I just snipped the supports right away. He said, and I'm quoting him here, "shit man you could go down to the liquor store and grab a bottle of Everclear or even some cheap bottle of Karkov vodka, really. For each part, you should use your own judgement whether the part is fully cleaned. I got some other detergent on the radar, which is from Sagrotan and thus almost double the price. If your wash IPA is dirty, this step will help minimize residual resin left on the surface of your print by ensuring it is fully cured. But Im just using IPA. rosier dappled depths I recommend TPM. inkstainswithroni It's pretty pricey at $US300 for 5 gallons, though.
Fill up the reservoir with your cleaner of choice. Turns out those dont have a strong 405nm line, so it wasnt very effective at all at actually curing the resin. If it's just to break down the greasy resin, would Dawn dish soap in water work? Looks like we are stuck with IPAyuck. I will probably give it a try though. There have been plenty of posts about this over on r/3Dprinting which I'm sure probably have an answer. For now I'm ordering a 2-gallon bucket with a sealing cover to keep the filled tub in when I'm not using it), I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Formlabs recommendForm Washalongside Formlabs desktop printers, andForm Wash Lfor large-format SLA printers to automate washing and rinsing your printed parts. I'm guessing because you just got it you already bought a stock of resin and so can't just switch over to water washable resin, I'm in the same boat but luckily I already had 20L of IPA so won't be running out any time soon. In this webinar, Matt Lewis and Ricky Hopper walk you through an overview of the improved SLA line, and give a hands on demo of the new products. Place your resin covered 3D print in the basket and submerge in the solution, set the time, and turn it on. Inspection showed glossy areas of the print where there had been a layer of uncured resin clinging to the surface. My old B9 Creator DLP printer with yellow resin was a joy to clean the resin from the model. If yes, did you dilute it? @media(min-width: 500px) { .header_responsive { width: 468px; height: 60px; } } For more detailed information about washing your prints, continue reading on our support site to learn more about rinsing stages, best practices for different part geometries, and more. Can't recommend the Resin Cleaner but the ResinAway stuff is pretty good. Alcohol will quickly aerosolize in the ultrasonic cleaner and that close to electronics it is not a safe combination. Resin tends to become far more fluid when warm so it should remove easier in a heated cleaner. resin painting 3268b gravure Its cheap for a gallon at any car place like Halfords etc. Forum contains unread posts I did not break out the two variables as this was less of a controlled study and more of a Oh no, I have 1 bottle of IPA left and cant get it kind of necessity. TPM is a non-flammable, low odor solvent, making it effective for washing parts printed on Formlabs SLA printersusingFormWash, Form Wash L,or FinishKit. I also do a rinse with water after the ultrasonic to clean off the solution and then if Im not curing the part submerged in water I let it fully dry before curing. Yeah all UV is not the same. Dry 10 min, cure 10 min. Can I clean my resin 3D prints without isopropyl alcohol (IPA)? I've seen some posts about letting it dry/harden in sunlight so it can be disposed of as a solid in regular trash, but that seems to have varying degrees of success. It's a straight substitute for isopropyl alcohol, way less flammable and cleans just as well. People have been seeking and testing alternatives for years in places where IPA is hard to get or because they don't like handling it. Yeah I got 1l of resin with the printer. So would Methylated Sprits do the same job? I don't know about the rest of the world but it is fairly cheap and easy to find in the US in places like Walmart along with other cleaning chemicals. Preheat to 30C, dry 10 min, cure 10 min. I used it on jewelry in my ultrasound (resin printer due in 2 weeks) and it was great even diluted. Thank you for sharing your progress. Mean Green is pretty awesome at removing resin. flexographic pigments soluble Attempts listed below, mean green as is without dilution: 1) Mean green in tub 1, CW1 wash for 5 min. I then asked about Methylated spirits and was informed that I could essentially think of Methylated spirits as IPA with additives that not only make it more toxic to humans (to what degree I didnt ask) but also smells horrible - However it would work, but yet again not essential. Warming the solution just makes the Prusa Tough orange resin go limp and features become delicate and break off.
your print). I also want my parts to be strong. Specifically degreasers are supposed to work well if you use them in an ultrasonic cleaner. daubers colourise methods Parts should be washed before removing supports. Replied
It still seems to remove most of the uncured goo. Ive been more careful about saving IPA, says Kevin Gautier, business development at Formlabs. As Im printing with a 50/50 mix of Elegoo Rapid Grey and Siraya Blu this also was not an option for me. Formlabs does not officially recommend any of the following, but some customers have shared with us their experience using other potentially available solvents. I still think that for the price it is a valid alternative, and since the results are sufficiently good, I#ll stick to it until the actual order is finished. inks solvent ink based water latex staedtler lumocolor heater The water, glycerin, or mineral oil helps exclude oxygen from the surface of your printed part as you post cure, resulting in a tack-free well-cured surface. Isopropyl alcohol is the obvious answer, but when it is in short supply what are my alternatives. Thanks for the report. However, you may have experienced the global shortage of IPA wash solvent due to COVID-19 or your facility may be unable to use IPA due to flammability concerns or local restrictions. Knows he knows nothing. My ultrasonic was set to 35C and 3 minutes. When creating designs with narrow channels, such as. Failing to properly wash parts will leave the parts sticky and unseemly, so post-processing is vital to successful 3D printing. The ultrasonic cleaner should work even if I need to use IPA or methylated spirits so I dont feel this is a wasted purchase. I'm happy I'm seeing progress, but still not satisfied, especially with all the extra effort I'm having to do compared to before. After the first failure, you changed two variables, i.e., you doubled the amount of ultrasonic time from a single 5-minute bath to two 5-minute baths, and you also increased the bath temperature from ~22 C to 50 C. Have you tried experimenting whether it was the temperature increase that did the trick, or was it the second bath that fixed it? Have you got a Polish shop nearby? There's no additional chemical reaction needed to take place that alcohol would execute for you, which is what I had assumed: That it was a key component to the process when it is'nt. 
Preheat to 30C, dry 10 min, cure 10 min. Methylated spirits should be available in most hardware stores. Once the timer has stopped remove the basket and inspect your prints. Best of luck in the hobby and thanks for reading. Then use a sealed plastic bag with your print in the alcohol in that. That "Frosch" cleaner does a decent enough job, though I could not run a reasonable survey yet, because I'm in the middle of a production run. Recent Posts Unread Posts Tags, Forum Icons:
I again cured them submerged in clean water for 5 minutes.This time there are no glossy areas, even in the very detailed crevices of the characters faces or the grooves in the bases. Maybe your brother is working with some fancy water soluble resins but the common stuff you get with printers will not dissolve in water. Germicidal is UV-C which isnt what most resin cures at. Of course I used my trusty Anycubic Photon. https://monocure3d.com.au/product-category/resinaway-cleaner/. Location Halifax UK, Just an idea: Maybe you can use it to clean the MK2/MK3/Mini sheets? epoxy momalwaysfindsout There is also Yellow Magic, again I've no experience with it but seems to be popular at the professional level. Any ideas on where to source the basket for the CW1? There has been some discussion in the Formlabs forum about TPA or TPE as a less-volatile cleaning agent. Which led to the next question I posed: Would it be possible to just put the print into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water? Learn more about our use of cookies: Can I Clean My Resin Prints Without Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA)? For the resin tainted solution I do the same thing as I used to with IPA. That was really what spurred me to use heat in the first place. I was just a bit over optimistic about the resin setting down after a while. 5 minutes in my UV box and they are ready for inspection. I scanned through their safety sheet and tried out different cleaning agents. If you are like me then youve noticed that the coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic has caused a massive shortage of IPA. The other thing I may try is Methyl Hydrate (aka methyl alcohol, methanol, wood alcohol) it is readily available here in hardware stores, at an economic price, I'm just not sure if it's a direct replacement for IPA or Ethanol. Asking because I was thinking of getting a cheap ultrasonic watch cleaner and using it with Mean Green. My local hardware store was sadly out of stock when I went searching. Take off minis from built plate and dunk rinse in tub 2 of water. Im calling this test a failure. I again cleaned the minis for 5 minutes. This is to simply separate the monomer (liquid state of the resin) from the polymer (solid state i.e. Rinsing, washing, and curing allows you to produce highly functional, detailed parts and finish your parts effectively. I am wondering if there are alternatives to this that could more easily evaporate off when done. I just started using my SL1 and opted to use "Mean Green" for starters. Some parts may require two washes in IPA or TPM to be fully clean. Sorry to hear that Flash Cleaner in the Anycubic wash and cure station isnt working. Not bad but it may be a bit much for the CW1. The UV glue from your screen protector would be in the same range as the resin so good call there. Minis on larger surface areas came out much better, but top surface of base (assuming I didn't scrub enough) and deep creases still shiny/showing residue. nexa3d printers xclean solvent It does need a good rinse with water afterward. 
I use Mr. Clean, the neon green stuff, and it works great! I personally dont want to be scrubbing my delicate prints pre curing as damaging a print means a complete redo and a lot of my models have fine bits that would break off. Please contact by calling their Sales & Customer Service U.S. Toll Free number: 1-800-531-7106. What issues did you have with your cure process? It turns out that IPA is not necessary to clean a resin 3D print if you have the right equipment.
polyamide cxa soluble biotech hubei that would perform the same job". Finding an alternatives to IPA right now is difficult, and priced extraordinarily high if you do. How To Replace The Ender 3 Main Board With A Silent 32 Bit Board, Automated Coronavirus (COVID-19) Testing Technologies, How to Wire and Install Electronics for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 6, How to Assemble the Afterburner Toolhead for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 5, How to Assemble the Gantry for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 4, How to Assemble the Z-Motion System for a Voron 3D Printer Build Diary Part 3. It does not have a warming function. In case you cannot acquire IPA, tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM) is a tested alternative for parts printed with non-biocompatible Formlabs resins. Parts should be moved around in the solvent as well as soaked for optimal cleaning. Hot Brand new to the resin printing scene, I've been printing in PLA for almost a year and wanted to print some amazing ingredients detailed minis for my YouTube channel and painting service, so chose the Anycubic Photon (just arrived!)
Excellent article Ive been trying to find a good cleaning process and Ive been switching between testing out mean green, purple power, 99% IPA, and 90% IPA. Thet stuff is labelled "Bio". A soft bristled toothbrush can also help in those situations. Keiran quick questions about disposal/clean uphow did you clean out the basin of the ultrasonic cleaner and what did you do with the resin tainted mean green liquid? Minis better on large flat areas (like shields), but majority of minis still shiny, with residue in creases. I'm also trying to put it back in the bottle and radiate it with UV. isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (TPM), Formlabs recommends washing SLA parts with. Most of the resins I'll be using only require 30 seconds of rinse time. I've used it to make alcohol ink and clean all kind of things. My first attempt at cleaning my prints was to print out some Star Wars minis I had designed with my 50/50 mixture of Siraya Blu and Elegoo Rapid Grey resin. If you use a water washable resin then supposedly you can just use water. Forum contains no unread posts Lots of LED strips or lamps at that range available as well so if you find you dont like the form factor of that one (maybe it doesnt fit larger prints well or something) then there are some cheap alternatives to go for. Im in the uk also and this looks like a great solution. Please let me know about the results. After I removed them from the build plate I cleaned them in room temperature Mean Green in the ultrasonic cleaner for 5 minutes. Using the Photons test print (the lattice cube), cleaning results were excellent. Formlabs have a couple of good posts on it: https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Washing-prints-with-TPM?language=en_US, https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Tripropylene-glycol-monomethyl-ether-TPM?language=en_US, I'm in the UK and I purchased it from here: https://www.britishchemicalproducts.co.uk/product.asp?s=qvcn8v2090584&strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=323&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1. If using heat set the temperature and wait for it to equilibrate. So it would seem that alcohol is really only used because it's convenient to not need to dry it off ~ especially so should your print have narrow nooks and crannies unreachable with a cloth had you just used water. Active By browsing our website, you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. I dont know yet how many build plates I can do in a single batch of Mean Green before it needs to be changed out. I have a can of it that I got from the hardware store in the pain section which I use in my alcohol burner that I use to tip new arrows. When handling wash solvents, always consult the safety data sheet (SDS) from the supplier as the primary source of information and ensure appropriate ventilation when handling. It seems to become saturated after a few uses (about 5 cleaning runs of quite big prints), but it is hard to judge, because the solution becomes opaque after two of three runs. Just wanted to confirm something. If you end up going with a room temperature cleaning Id love to hear how that worked out and if you needed to do anything differently. My favourite so far is named "Frosch Spiritus Glas-Reiniger" (1,65 per liter). Everything was still warm from the cleaning so I just snipped the supports right away. He said, and I'm quoting him here, "shit man you could go down to the liquor store and grab a bottle of Everclear or even some cheap bottle of Karkov vodka, really. For each part, you should use your own judgement whether the part is fully cleaned. I got some other detergent on the radar, which is from Sagrotan and thus almost double the price. If your wash IPA is dirty, this step will help minimize residual resin left on the surface of your print by ensuring it is fully cured. But Im just using IPA. rosier dappled depths I recommend TPM. inkstainswithroni It's pretty pricey at $US300 for 5 gallons, though.
Fill up the reservoir with your cleaner of choice. Turns out those dont have a strong 405nm line, so it wasnt very effective at all at actually curing the resin. If it's just to break down the greasy resin, would Dawn dish soap in water work? Looks like we are stuck with IPAyuck. I will probably give it a try though. There have been plenty of posts about this over on r/3Dprinting which I'm sure probably have an answer. For now I'm ordering a 2-gallon bucket with a sealing cover to keep the filled tub in when I'm not using it), I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Formlabs recommendForm Washalongside Formlabs desktop printers, andForm Wash Lfor large-format SLA printers to automate washing and rinsing your printed parts. I'm guessing because you just got it you already bought a stock of resin and so can't just switch over to water washable resin, I'm in the same boat but luckily I already had 20L of IPA so won't be running out any time soon. In this webinar, Matt Lewis and Ricky Hopper walk you through an overview of the improved SLA line, and give a hands on demo of the new products. Place your resin covered 3D print in the basket and submerge in the solution, set the time, and turn it on. Inspection showed glossy areas of the print where there had been a layer of uncured resin clinging to the surface. My old B9 Creator DLP printer with yellow resin was a joy to clean the resin from the model. If yes, did you dilute it? @media(min-width: 500px) { .header_responsive { width: 468px; height: 60px; } } For more detailed information about washing your prints, continue reading on our support site to learn more about rinsing stages, best practices for different part geometries, and more. Can't recommend the Resin Cleaner but the ResinAway stuff is pretty good. Alcohol will quickly aerosolize in the ultrasonic cleaner and that close to electronics it is not a safe combination. Resin tends to become far more fluid when warm so it should remove easier in a heated cleaner. resin painting 3268b gravure Its cheap for a gallon at any car place like Halfords etc. Forum contains unread posts I did not break out the two variables as this was less of a controlled study and more of a Oh no, I have 1 bottle of IPA left and cant get it kind of necessity. TPM is a non-flammable, low odor solvent, making it effective for washing parts printed on Formlabs SLA printersusingFormWash, Form Wash L,or FinishKit. I also do a rinse with water after the ultrasonic to clean off the solution and then if Im not curing the part submerged in water I let it fully dry before curing. Yeah all UV is not the same. Dry 10 min, cure 10 min. Can I clean my resin 3D prints without isopropyl alcohol (IPA)? I've seen some posts about letting it dry/harden in sunlight so it can be disposed of as a solid in regular trash, but that seems to have varying degrees of success. It's a straight substitute for isopropyl alcohol, way less flammable and cleans just as well. People have been seeking and testing alternatives for years in places where IPA is hard to get or because they don't like handling it. Yeah I got 1l of resin with the printer. So would Methylated Sprits do the same job? I don't know about the rest of the world but it is fairly cheap and easy to find in the US in places like Walmart along with other cleaning chemicals. Preheat to 30C, dry 10 min, cure 10 min. I used it on jewelry in my ultrasound (resin printer due in 2 weeks) and it was great even diluted. Thank you for sharing your progress. Mean Green is pretty awesome at removing resin. flexographic pigments soluble Attempts listed below, mean green as is without dilution: 1) Mean green in tub 1, CW1 wash for 5 min. I then asked about Methylated spirits and was informed that I could essentially think of Methylated spirits as IPA with additives that not only make it more toxic to humans (to what degree I didnt ask) but also smells horrible - However it would work, but yet again not essential. Warming the solution just makes the Prusa Tough orange resin go limp and features become delicate and break off.
