For finger cracks, if I think I am going to fall on a small cam, I want it to be a C4. This is a series of coloured dots on the lobes of the cam which suggest how retracted the cam should be for the best placement. Mark, if you really don't have any idea what someone is talking about when they say you need a #3, for God's sake spend a week at Index or the Creek. you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. I'll be getting more BD cams as I expand my rack in the smaller range, so it is nice to have some schema by which to get familiar with my gear. DMM's long-anticipatedentry into the micro cam market was worth the wait, says Theo Moore. They have a plastic body that protects the springs and allows for each lobe to move independently. Another question I have since I've got some old BD Camalots:
Please support the following outdoor retailers who support. It also goes down to a really small size, almost as small as as the Wild Country Zero. In theory this will very slightly reduce holding power but, as Black Diamond point out, these are well tested units that certainly don't make a habit of coming out. I know the Evolutions were a bit of a dud but all of the quality issues seem to have been corrected with the Revolution cams. The only other drawback is the price, which tops the charts. All of the Black Diamond Z4 cams are a single stem cam, where on the 0.3 and larger sizes the wire has been twisted. This allows them to bend in all directions for maximum flexibility. The sizes 0, 0.1, and 0.2 have only a single wire. This means they perform to the same flexibility as the larger units. Red: Thin Hands (painful feet)
You can read Duncan Campbell's full review here: ReviewTotem Basic Cams
Flexible stem is laterally stiff for tight placements This seemed like a good way to cut through that. I personally think Black Diamond are well ahead of the game when it comes to cams. Ever improving them. Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. The ultimate weapon for thin cracks, pockets or pin scars on cutting-edge climbs and extreme adventures. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. "How much more time you could have spent climbing cracks and figuring this out experientially rather than sitting inside with a tape measure and spreadsheet or whatever. " This could be expect for extremely small and light cams, and they're certainly still usable without any detriment to performance. The stem is durable; you can bounce test these and contort them and they generally hold up well. And speaking of racking, were introducing a new innovative trigger keeper on sizes #4, #5, #6, #7, and #8 that keeps the big guys contracted for compact racking and immediately release when youre ready to place. 0.4 Silver (15.3-27.7mm, 9kN) overlaps with silver 0.4 Camalot C4 (15.5-26.7mm) but wider range, slightly smaller and much narrower headwidth.
Most regular cam ranges - think the DMM Dragons, Black Diamond Camalots or Wild Country Friends - start with a smallest size range of roughly 14mm - 22mm (BD 13.8-23.4mm, DMM 14-21mm, WC 15.8-26.3mm). It does not flex as much as the Dragonflys, Zeros or Totem Basics but it does a good job of solving the flexibility vs stiffness conundrum. In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. Unfortunately flexibility is really where the Master Cams fall down. We haven't deliberately fallen on all the cams but those we have done have held just fine. Read more. While extendable slings are a matter of personal preference (we have had many a second who absolutely hates tidying up after us), the Z4s do not have extendable slings, and indeed the slings are quite short, so extension with a quickdraw or sling is essential on most placements.
However their tiny size makes them extra sensitive to the vagaries of camming devices - holding power, walking and deformation. Being tiny things, micro cams naturally don't weigh much, but it's always worth considering the weight of each piece of your trad gear. Points: 490, Latest print publications. *conditions apply & not applicable to sale items. The two sides of the stem are pinched together in the plastic sleeve and swaged into the head to give the handling of a single stem but the weight saving of a double stem. Micro cams are one of the most specialist - and among the most crucial - pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. Weve also widened the trigger as well for better handling. I weighed my X4 units (feel very sad doing this), but for the purpose of the review I thought this may be important. All of the X4 units I weighed, came out to more than what was stated on the Black Diamond website. (Not sure whether I have an older version). Each unit came in 7-10 grams more, than what I have in the table above (see picture below as example, Im certain the electrical tape does not weigh 9 grams). NO RETURNS ON SAFETY GEARDue to the nature of the safety gear, we cannot accept returns for change of mind or incorrect size choice on the following safety gear and equipment:All personal protective equipment, harnesses, rope, all load bearing equipment and accessories, helmets, slings, carabiners, belay devices and hardware for life support such as ascenders, fall arrestors and descenders.However, if a product fails to meet a Consumer Guarantee, then this exclusion will not apply. A full set of Black Diamond X4 off-sets are available, ranging from sizes 0.75 to 0.1. Unfortunately, they do not produce an off-set cam 0/0.1. This is actually quite a big consideration as, with the smallest sizes of micro cams, you're often placing them in very small and shallow placements, and this is going to either prevent you from using the shallowest placements or compromise the security of the cam in a shallow placement. Durability is a big plus-point for the Master Cams. *Pssst, you can subscribe to WeighMyRack's Youtube or Vimeo channels for more gear videos. The Z4s have the narrowest heads in the test, beating the nearest competitor, WC Zeros, by a couple of millimetres across all sizes. There is some movement horizontally but almost none vertically. This allows us to provide a consistent comparison to a single size of cams. In 2015 we gave Totem Cams a glowing write-up, praising in particular their high holding power and narrow head width. To give you an example of the forces typically generated in a climbing fall, and therefore the strength ratings you may want to look out for in your cams, here's a quote from the BMC's Technical Officer, Dan Middleton:"Most falls will generate a force in the range of 3-5kN A particularly hard fall may generate up to 6-7kN". Apparently this doesn't affect performance but it's not ideal. This places them favourably in comparison to the other cams on test, with only the Green Dragonfly 1 having a further kN of force over the Green Z4 size 0. One of our friends, Sara, also had a great experience with the purple 00 C3. Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. The sheath also protects the wires and prevents them from getting caught and twisted - the X4 and other softer stemmed cams we have used tend to twist/bend relatively early in their careers. The Dragonflys (flies?) The trigger is easy to use and has a nice big comfy spot for your hand. They have a higher strength rating than Metolius cams, but I have never fallen on them. Or for minimizing stress in the rock or stability of the cam? I think the Green is also my favorite C3 and it got a lot of use on the SW face of Conness, fitting in one spot that was surely too narrow for any of our other small gear. When light is right, the Camalot Ultralight is essential. Of all the sets of micro cams they have the largest range and smallest head widths which is exactly what we have been looking for in this review and what makes a set of micro cams, on paper at least, the most desirable. The Zeros are extremely flexible along the stem, although the spring which protects the unit forces the stem back into a straight position, compromising some of this flexibility - the Zero actively tries to straighten itself when bent. Collecting every piece of gear takes a little time. Stickers. I shall use my time." Olympus, what would it look like? C3s, made by Black Diamond, are a well polished three lobe camming unit. I recently placed this piece on the crux pitch of cloud tower and it was bomber. That was one of the surprises I noticed from graphing the data. The size 0 comes in at 43g on the scales and the 0.75 at 93g.
Again, being tiny, durability can often be an issue for micro cams. The Zeros also have a thumb loop which really helps you to keep a hold of and place them given that the Zeros are so small. View Size Matters: A Gear Comparison Image Gallery - 1 Images, Just sneaking a little in here and there. This makes the units easier to slide into narrow cracks - the wire never restricts the lobes.
If you are interested in purchasing the new Black Diamond Z4 Cams, Bananafingers sell them: 1 Terrace Cottages, London Road, Stroud, Gloucestershire, GL5 2BN, Climbing Psychology Coaching Kalymnos, Hestra Ergo Grip Outdry Dexterity Short Gloves, RigidFlex stem stays rigid in-hand for easy placement, but flexes once placed to reduce walking, Dual twisted cable construction for uniform flex on larger sizes; single cable construction on smaller sizes to avoid buckling and reduce trigger profile, Sandblasted lobes for better holding power, Lightweight yet durable Dynex sling with a unique colour coding, Flexible stem once placed, to reduce walking. If you'd like to go straight to a comparison of the sizes of all the cams in this review just click here. A cam with a smaller head width can fit in to narrower and more awkward placements than a wider cam, thereby opening more protection possibilities. She was super happy that the cam held that real life test made her believe in the cams. Over the last yearSimon Verspeak has thrashed them on a wide range of rock types. which in turn is determined by the type of alloy used in the lobes and the features of the surface (e.g smooth, ridged). I've geeked out in a similar way to compare my Metolius and BD cams, with similar conclusions. If branding was removed from Totem basics, Dragonflys and Revolutions (the three brands I'd look to buy) is there much in it? The Black Diamond Z4 cams have a unique colour coding to easily identify the correct size. Hence, making it easier, when frantically looking for the right sized cam, when getting pumped out on a crux move. Saving those few vital seconds that could mean a flash ascent, or a whipper. I'm a very visual person, so with my leading so far I'm just used to eyeballing the crack and then eyeballing the pro. However, on paper there's no difference.
They are, without doubt, my micro-cam of choice. They look a bit complicated. The worlds best-selling, most trusted cam just got better. This video is really long but very informative for the Camalots and Camalot C3's users. UKClimbing Limited. setting up a re-slinging service in Europe, 4 Blue (12.1-17.9mm, 8kN, 67g) overlaps with the regular blue 00 Dragon (14-21mm), 5 Silver (15.1-22.5mm, 9kN, 70g) overlapping with silver 0 Dragon (16-25mm), 6 Purple (19-28.3mm, 9kN, 73g) overlaps with purple 1 Dragon (20-33mm). Wild Country is now introducing the new Offset Zeros the ultimate weapon for wild climbing adventures and thin flared cracks. In addition, the superfluous bit of metal sticking out of the top of some of the cams reduces their placement potential. C3s are no longer available so the Z4 is now the only microcam in the BD range). So, we have compared the Z4s with the X4s. How do they fare against the C3 camming units? Please find below a table of the camming ranges, comparing the C3 units with the Z4 camming devices. I shall not waste my days trying to prolong them. Hopefully tomorrow will be the day to send my ongoing project, and the C3s will be the key to protecting its tricky fingertip cruxes. The Zeros have extendable slings which save a lot of quickdraws on your rack and help to prevent walking. As a result, an But we don't think that makes up for a lack of flexibility, an almost essential characteristic in a micro cam. Whilst the sizing of the Master Cam is regular, one thing that is not is the end of the stem which sticks out above the lobes of the 00 and 0 sizes. Read more They're a matter of personal preference but most climbers seem to be a fan. Anecdotally, the Zeros hold well. Cons: Heavy; expensive; smallest sizes tricky to place in irregular cracks. The 0 is about the same size as a blue Alien / 0 TCU. Innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5, #6, #7, #8. This is one of the easiest small cams to clean. The ribbed trigger and thumb rest are grippy and even the #000 fit my big mitts. I consistently got the right size first time, even though I am more used to other units, which is probably the extra range at work. This is true of the Master Cams generally, although it transpires that the plastic casing around the stem can wear out. They also seem solid when you place and then tug them - we think this is the industry standard test for safety; it's certainly the most that UKC would demand of its reviewers.
We'll also look at these and their qualities. "if you really don't have any idea what someone is talking about when they say you need a #3" They also have the biggest individual camming range per unit compared to equivalent micro cam sizes in this group test. Their downside is that they don't go as small as the more modern micro cams with the smallest (blue) size being 11.2-17.44mm (slightly larger than the gold Dragonfly or Yellow Zero). Did BD change some of their cam ranges over the year? Funnily enough I had several Alien Evolution cams, with the key word being 'had', as all of them have subsequently fallen apart. Initially we weren't going to include the Totems in this group test, since their micro cams - Totem Basics - are no longer in production. A secondary, but important, consideration is head width. Thanks to a uniquely narrow head profile, the Camalot C3 fits in places where other cams simply won't go. firstScriptTag.parentNode.insertBefore(tag, firstScriptTag); It is also worth noting that the 0.3 and above are rated equally for active and passive placements, as the double axle design allows them to be nutted in too a unique feature in this group test. DMM did manage to increase the friction of the lobes their smallest cams with TripleGrip, however. Nevertheless, some other models in this review have narrower heads than the Dragonfly. All this being said, a cam's propensity to walk is always a function of placement and extension. I can't wait to be climbing above them again! All rights reserved. I've been gradually been learning on sight what cams fit what sizes, but I'm slow to connect the actual model # to the size since I'm not really a numbers & details sort of person. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam.
Nice choice! As they're such solid units, including the stems, and they aren't subject to the same bending or deformation as the more flexible cams on test. On the plus side, the stiff stem of the Master Cam makes it feel extremely solid; it's easy to place and retrieve, confidence-inspiring and durable. Anecdotally they hold well in a variety of rock types.
If you could create your own perfect cam in the forge of Mt. A micro cam is only useful insofar as it can protect you.
The Dragonfly comes in six sizes, and overlaps in the upper end of the range with the standard Dragon cam: ReviewDMM Dragonfly Micro Cams So, Black Diamond have narrowed the head units, made them super flexible, and put the Z4s on a serious diet, to make them almost as light as the Black Diamond Ultralight camming units. Although, the Z4s dont quite match the weight of the Ultralights (on only two units), I would always go for the Z4s, as these have a longer lifespan, hence a better investment. Because the loop of the Black Diamond Ultralight cams are made from dyneema, these have a limited lifespan of 10 years. Whereas the Z4s can last you a lifetime, with occasionally the tape being replaced, as the loop is made of metal wire. So, Black Diamond have taken the head width of the old C3 units, taken the flexibility of the X4 units, sandblasted the cam lobes, improved it a little more, to give you the Black Diamond Z4 cam. The sheath gives the stiffness to make accurate placements under pressure, something that was vastly lacking in the X4s which bobbleheaded around. If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. As well as the purely practical nature of this consideration, there is also a psychological one: if you know that the piece of gear is technically strong enough to hold your fall, you will feel much more confident in it than if not, and given that the vast majority of trad gear placements are not fallen on, the confidence-inspiring ability of a micro cam is often very important. Double-axle design offers widest range for each cam unit, Dyneema core stem design is strong, durable and low-profile, Ergonomically optimized stem and thumb loop for surgically precise placements, Oz, HoodWire, HotWire and Neutrino Rackpacks available for easy racking (see Carabiner section). Luckily the Z4 trigger action is smooth and sturdy, the thumb loop makes it easy to use quickly and the comparative stiffness of the stem gives more lateral stability than the other cams in the test when triggered unequally. I have taken whippers on the blue .3 size, and these pieces are solid and confidence-inspiring. As such you want the best quality you can get: in this test we take a look at some of the main micro camming devices currently available on the market.
single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on From the blue upwards the Zeros have relatively deep serration on the lobes which really helps with friction, and thereby holding power, on smoother rock types. There is precious little to fault and yet, somehow, I often found myself reaching for other units first. If you know where to find this online in the US, let us know, and well add the link.
To cover a range from 19-100mm (actually 19.6-114.7mm) requires 6 units with a total weight of 984g. Camalots have steadily increased their following in the UK since they were redesigned a few years ago. As well as the Black Diamond Z4 cams having a smaller head unit, and being very flexible, they weigh less than the X4 camming units. Please see table below for comparison: With the smallest weight saving of 11%, which may not seem a lot. Jokes aside, giving a cam a good rattling around once you've placed it is often illuminating in showing how well the cam's lobes grip that particular rock type and how much the lobes move when the the cam's stem is dragged side to side (as it could be in case of rope drag). I'll try to find an old catalog somewhere Hey Luc, The Cam Research Site. If Their stems are very rigid: the main wire of the stem is very stiff and it's then supported by two more seperate wires which combine to give an inflexible stem. BD Athlete Alex Honnold has never been a fan of wide cracks, or as he puts it a little more bluntly: "Offwidth climbing sucks". When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. Having used the Dragonflys for over a year now they are doing pretty well. Pros: Great balance between stiffness and flexibility; easy to place; interlocking lobes offer a slim profile; stellar performance in winter conditions They have wider cam lobes than Metolius and Alien cams in the smaller sizes, which means more surface area/friction. But yes, placing several cams of the same size in a row while jamming the same crack would be the ideal way to really get a feel for body sizes vs. cam size. So, what exactly is it that we're looking for in a micro cam? It's also great to hear that Wild Country are setting up a re-slinging service in Europe as this is something that has previously been missing from their offering. have tried some Metolius micro cams but they didnt inspire me with confidence. i did have a red Alien but had to retire it after I fell 50 ft onto it.
Not only is a cam with a smooth action more pleasant to use, it also often correlates with the individual lobes moving in unison, making the cam easier to place. The smallest cam in the Dragon range is the blue 00, and for our purposes anything smaller than this can be considered a micro cam. So handy. As such, we've taken the decision to compare all the units in this group test to the DMM Dragon sizes, where relevant. 20% OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER & use the code FINDINGMYFEET at checkout The purpose of a micro cam is to provide protection in small placements, so it's essential that the device goes small enough to fit thin cracks. This version of the Camalot C3 0 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! After user feedback we decided to create a table comparing cam stats side-by-side, with the most notable values being minimum and maximum ranges and headwidths. These two alloys are the same hardness and so the perceptible difference in the lobes, which may or may not lead to a practical difference, can't be explained by a difference in hardness. For example, in the 0.3-0.75 size range I now find that a mix of C4, Z4 and Totems can cover almost any eventuality on a large adventure trad rack. Purple/Green: What are you dragging me up!?!?! "I would rather be ashes than dust! I like the design, but they are not very flexible, and sizes 1 and 2 do not seem to fit as well as the Metolius TCU equivalent. Rob, off topic, but which sizes of Totem are you using on Peak Lime? But even Honnold has to thrust his body into deep fissures from time to time:"Many of the most classic routes in the world, As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse It fit in a tiny crack and despite the small lobes it inspired confidence a rare thing for me when making such small placements. Boy I would love to, but I haven't had the opportunity. The other notable feature of the Dragonflys are their extendable slings which reduce the amount of quickdraws you need to take, and help prevent the cam walking when the sling is deployed. TAS 7000 Up To 30% Off Backcountry MTB Apparel .css-1081t4c{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}Shop Now, Basecamp Under The Stars Shop Coolers, Camp Furniture & More.
Most regular cam ranges - think the DMM Dragons, Black Diamond Camalots or Wild Country Friends - start with a smallest size range of roughly 14mm - 22mm (BD 13.8-23.4mm, DMM 14-21mm, WC 15.8-26.3mm). It does not flex as much as the Dragonflys, Zeros or Totem Basics but it does a good job of solving the flexibility vs stiffness conundrum. In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. Unfortunately flexibility is really where the Master Cams fall down. We haven't deliberately fallen on all the cams but those we have done have held just fine. Read more. While extendable slings are a matter of personal preference (we have had many a second who absolutely hates tidying up after us), the Z4s do not have extendable slings, and indeed the slings are quite short, so extension with a quickdraw or sling is essential on most placements.
However their tiny size makes them extra sensitive to the vagaries of camming devices - holding power, walking and deformation. Being tiny things, micro cams naturally don't weigh much, but it's always worth considering the weight of each piece of your trad gear. Points: 490, Latest print publications. *conditions apply & not applicable to sale items. The two sides of the stem are pinched together in the plastic sleeve and swaged into the head to give the handling of a single stem but the weight saving of a double stem. Micro cams are one of the most specialist - and among the most crucial - pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. Weve also widened the trigger as well for better handling. I weighed my X4 units (feel very sad doing this), but for the purpose of the review I thought this may be important. All of the X4 units I weighed, came out to more than what was stated on the Black Diamond website. (Not sure whether I have an older version). Each unit came in 7-10 grams more, than what I have in the table above (see picture below as example, Im certain the electrical tape does not weigh 9 grams). NO RETURNS ON SAFETY GEARDue to the nature of the safety gear, we cannot accept returns for change of mind or incorrect size choice on the following safety gear and equipment:All personal protective equipment, harnesses, rope, all load bearing equipment and accessories, helmets, slings, carabiners, belay devices and hardware for life support such as ascenders, fall arrestors and descenders.However, if a product fails to meet a Consumer Guarantee, then this exclusion will not apply. A full set of Black Diamond X4 off-sets are available, ranging from sizes 0.75 to 0.1. Unfortunately, they do not produce an off-set cam 0/0.1. This is actually quite a big consideration as, with the smallest sizes of micro cams, you're often placing them in very small and shallow placements, and this is going to either prevent you from using the shallowest placements or compromise the security of the cam in a shallow placement. Durability is a big plus-point for the Master Cams. *Pssst, you can subscribe to WeighMyRack's Youtube or Vimeo channels for more gear videos. The Z4s have the narrowest heads in the test, beating the nearest competitor, WC Zeros, by a couple of millimetres across all sizes. There is some movement horizontally but almost none vertically. This allows us to provide a consistent comparison to a single size of cams. In 2015 we gave Totem Cams a glowing write-up, praising in particular their high holding power and narrow head width. To give you an example of the forces typically generated in a climbing fall, and therefore the strength ratings you may want to look out for in your cams, here's a quote from the BMC's Technical Officer, Dan Middleton:"Most falls will generate a force in the range of 3-5kN A particularly hard fall may generate up to 6-7kN". Apparently this doesn't affect performance but it's not ideal. This places them favourably in comparison to the other cams on test, with only the Green Dragonfly 1 having a further kN of force over the Green Z4 size 0. One of our friends, Sara, also had a great experience with the purple 00 C3. Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. The sheath also protects the wires and prevents them from getting caught and twisted - the X4 and other softer stemmed cams we have used tend to twist/bend relatively early in their careers. The Dragonflys (flies?) The trigger is easy to use and has a nice big comfy spot for your hand. They have a higher strength rating than Metolius cams, but I have never fallen on them. Or for minimizing stress in the rock or stability of the cam? I think the Green is also my favorite C3 and it got a lot of use on the SW face of Conness, fitting in one spot that was surely too narrow for any of our other small gear. When light is right, the Camalot Ultralight is essential. Of all the sets of micro cams they have the largest range and smallest head widths which is exactly what we have been looking for in this review and what makes a set of micro cams, on paper at least, the most desirable. The Zeros are extremely flexible along the stem, although the spring which protects the unit forces the stem back into a straight position, compromising some of this flexibility - the Zero actively tries to straighten itself when bent. Collecting every piece of gear takes a little time. Stickers. I shall use my time." Olympus, what would it look like? C3s, made by Black Diamond, are a well polished three lobe camming unit. I recently placed this piece on the crux pitch of cloud tower and it was bomber. That was one of the surprises I noticed from graphing the data. The size 0 comes in at 43g on the scales and the 0.75 at 93g.
Again, being tiny, durability can often be an issue for micro cams. The Zeros also have a thumb loop which really helps you to keep a hold of and place them given that the Zeros are so small. View Size Matters: A Gear Comparison Image Gallery - 1 Images, Just sneaking a little in here and there. This makes the units easier to slide into narrow cracks - the wire never restricts the lobes.
If you are interested in purchasing the new Black Diamond Z4 Cams, Bananafingers sell them: 1 Terrace Cottages, London Road, Stroud, Gloucestershire, GL5 2BN, Climbing Psychology Coaching Kalymnos, Hestra Ergo Grip Outdry Dexterity Short Gloves, RigidFlex stem stays rigid in-hand for easy placement, but flexes once placed to reduce walking, Dual twisted cable construction for uniform flex on larger sizes; single cable construction on smaller sizes to avoid buckling and reduce trigger profile, Sandblasted lobes for better holding power, Lightweight yet durable Dynex sling with a unique colour coding, Flexible stem once placed, to reduce walking. If you'd like to go straight to a comparison of the sizes of all the cams in this review just click here. A cam with a smaller head width can fit in to narrower and more awkward placements than a wider cam, thereby opening more protection possibilities. She was super happy that the cam held that real life test made her believe in the cams. Over the last yearSimon Verspeak has thrashed them on a wide range of rock types. which in turn is determined by the type of alloy used in the lobes and the features of the surface (e.g smooth, ridged). I've geeked out in a similar way to compare my Metolius and BD cams, with similar conclusions. If branding was removed from Totem basics, Dragonflys and Revolutions (the three brands I'd look to buy) is there much in it? The Black Diamond Z4 cams have a unique colour coding to easily identify the correct size. Hence, making it easier, when frantically looking for the right sized cam, when getting pumped out on a crux move. Saving those few vital seconds that could mean a flash ascent, or a whipper. I'm a very visual person, so with my leading so far I'm just used to eyeballing the crack and then eyeballing the pro. However, on paper there's no difference.
They are, without doubt, my micro-cam of choice. They look a bit complicated. The worlds best-selling, most trusted cam just got better. This video is really long but very informative for the Camalots and Camalot C3's users. UKClimbing Limited. setting up a re-slinging service in Europe, 4 Blue (12.1-17.9mm, 8kN, 67g) overlaps with the regular blue 00 Dragon (14-21mm), 5 Silver (15.1-22.5mm, 9kN, 70g) overlapping with silver 0 Dragon (16-25mm), 6 Purple (19-28.3mm, 9kN, 73g) overlaps with purple 1 Dragon (20-33mm). Wild Country is now introducing the new Offset Zeros the ultimate weapon for wild climbing adventures and thin flared cracks. In addition, the superfluous bit of metal sticking out of the top of some of the cams reduces their placement potential. C3s are no longer available so the Z4 is now the only microcam in the BD range). So, we have compared the Z4s with the X4s. How do they fare against the C3 camming units? Please find below a table of the camming ranges, comparing the C3 units with the Z4 camming devices. I shall not waste my days trying to prolong them. Hopefully tomorrow will be the day to send my ongoing project, and the C3s will be the key to protecting its tricky fingertip cruxes. The Zeros have extendable slings which save a lot of quickdraws on your rack and help to prevent walking. As a result, an But we don't think that makes up for a lack of flexibility, an almost essential characteristic in a micro cam. Whilst the sizing of the Master Cam is regular, one thing that is not is the end of the stem which sticks out above the lobes of the 00 and 0 sizes. Read more They're a matter of personal preference but most climbers seem to be a fan. Anecdotally, the Zeros hold well. Cons: Heavy; expensive; smallest sizes tricky to place in irregular cracks. The 0 is about the same size as a blue Alien / 0 TCU. Innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5, #6, #7, #8. This is one of the easiest small cams to clean. The ribbed trigger and thumb rest are grippy and even the #000 fit my big mitts. I consistently got the right size first time, even though I am more used to other units, which is probably the extra range at work. This is true of the Master Cams generally, although it transpires that the plastic casing around the stem can wear out. They also seem solid when you place and then tug them - we think this is the industry standard test for safety; it's certainly the most that UKC would demand of its reviewers.
We'll also look at these and their qualities. "if you really don't have any idea what someone is talking about when they say you need a #3" They also have the biggest individual camming range per unit compared to equivalent micro cam sizes in this group test. Their downside is that they don't go as small as the more modern micro cams with the smallest (blue) size being 11.2-17.44mm (slightly larger than the gold Dragonfly or Yellow Zero). Did BD change some of their cam ranges over the year? Funnily enough I had several Alien Evolution cams, with the key word being 'had', as all of them have subsequently fallen apart. Initially we weren't going to include the Totems in this group test, since their micro cams - Totem Basics - are no longer in production. A secondary, but important, consideration is head width. Thanks to a uniquely narrow head profile, the Camalot C3 fits in places where other cams simply won't go. firstScriptTag.parentNode.insertBefore(tag, firstScriptTag); It is also worth noting that the 0.3 and above are rated equally for active and passive placements, as the double axle design allows them to be nutted in too a unique feature in this group test. DMM did manage to increase the friction of the lobes their smallest cams with TripleGrip, however. Nevertheless, some other models in this review have narrower heads than the Dragonfly. All this being said, a cam's propensity to walk is always a function of placement and extension. I can't wait to be climbing above them again! All rights reserved. I've been gradually been learning on sight what cams fit what sizes, but I'm slow to connect the actual model # to the size since I'm not really a numbers & details sort of person. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam.
Nice choice! As they're such solid units, including the stems, and they aren't subject to the same bending or deformation as the more flexible cams on test. On the plus side, the stiff stem of the Master Cam makes it feel extremely solid; it's easy to place and retrieve, confidence-inspiring and durable. Anecdotally they hold well in a variety of rock types.
If you could create your own perfect cam in the forge of Mt. A micro cam is only useful insofar as it can protect you.
The Dragonfly comes in six sizes, and overlaps in the upper end of the range with the standard Dragon cam: ReviewDMM Dragonfly Micro Cams So, Black Diamond have narrowed the head units, made them super flexible, and put the Z4s on a serious diet, to make them almost as light as the Black Diamond Ultralight camming units. Although, the Z4s dont quite match the weight of the Ultralights (on only two units), I would always go for the Z4s, as these have a longer lifespan, hence a better investment. Because the loop of the Black Diamond Ultralight cams are made from dyneema, these have a limited lifespan of 10 years. Whereas the Z4s can last you a lifetime, with occasionally the tape being replaced, as the loop is made of metal wire. So, Black Diamond have taken the head width of the old C3 units, taken the flexibility of the X4 units, sandblasted the cam lobes, improved it a little more, to give you the Black Diamond Z4 cam. The sheath gives the stiffness to make accurate placements under pressure, something that was vastly lacking in the X4s which bobbleheaded around. If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. As well as the purely practical nature of this consideration, there is also a psychological one: if you know that the piece of gear is technically strong enough to hold your fall, you will feel much more confident in it than if not, and given that the vast majority of trad gear placements are not fallen on, the confidence-inspiring ability of a micro cam is often very important. Double-axle design offers widest range for each cam unit, Dyneema core stem design is strong, durable and low-profile, Ergonomically optimized stem and thumb loop for surgically precise placements, Oz, HoodWire, HotWire and Neutrino Rackpacks available for easy racking (see Carabiner section). Luckily the Z4 trigger action is smooth and sturdy, the thumb loop makes it easy to use quickly and the comparative stiffness of the stem gives more lateral stability than the other cams in the test when triggered unequally. I have taken whippers on the blue .3 size, and these pieces are solid and confidence-inspiring. As such you want the best quality you can get: in this test we take a look at some of the main micro camming devices currently available on the market.
single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on From the blue upwards the Zeros have relatively deep serration on the lobes which really helps with friction, and thereby holding power, on smoother rock types. There is precious little to fault and yet, somehow, I often found myself reaching for other units first. If you know where to find this online in the US, let us know, and well add the link.
To cover a range from 19-100mm (actually 19.6-114.7mm) requires 6 units with a total weight of 984g. Camalots have steadily increased their following in the UK since they were redesigned a few years ago. As well as the Black Diamond Z4 cams having a smaller head unit, and being very flexible, they weigh less than the X4 camming units. Please see table below for comparison: With the smallest weight saving of 11%, which may not seem a lot. Jokes aside, giving a cam a good rattling around once you've placed it is often illuminating in showing how well the cam's lobes grip that particular rock type and how much the lobes move when the the cam's stem is dragged side to side (as it could be in case of rope drag). I'll try to find an old catalog somewhere Hey Luc, The Cam Research Site. If Their stems are very rigid: the main wire of the stem is very stiff and it's then supported by two more seperate wires which combine to give an inflexible stem. BD Athlete Alex Honnold has never been a fan of wide cracks, or as he puts it a little more bluntly: "Offwidth climbing sucks". When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. Having used the Dragonflys for over a year now they are doing pretty well. Pros: Great balance between stiffness and flexibility; easy to place; interlocking lobes offer a slim profile; stellar performance in winter conditions They have wider cam lobes than Metolius and Alien cams in the smaller sizes, which means more surface area/friction. But yes, placing several cams of the same size in a row while jamming the same crack would be the ideal way to really get a feel for body sizes vs. cam size. So, what exactly is it that we're looking for in a micro cam? It's also great to hear that Wild Country are setting up a re-slinging service in Europe as this is something that has previously been missing from their offering. have tried some Metolius micro cams but they didnt inspire me with confidence. i did have a red Alien but had to retire it after I fell 50 ft onto it.
Not only is a cam with a smooth action more pleasant to use, it also often correlates with the individual lobes moving in unison, making the cam easier to place. The smallest cam in the Dragon range is the blue 00, and for our purposes anything smaller than this can be considered a micro cam. So handy. As such, we've taken the decision to compare all the units in this group test to the DMM Dragon sizes, where relevant. 20% OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER & use the code FINDINGMYFEET at checkout The purpose of a micro cam is to provide protection in small placements, so it's essential that the device goes small enough to fit thin cracks. This version of the Camalot C3 0 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! After user feedback we decided to create a table comparing cam stats side-by-side, with the most notable values being minimum and maximum ranges and headwidths. These two alloys are the same hardness and so the perceptible difference in the lobes, which may or may not lead to a practical difference, can't be explained by a difference in hardness. For example, in the 0.3-0.75 size range I now find that a mix of C4, Z4 and Totems can cover almost any eventuality on a large adventure trad rack. Purple/Green: What are you dragging me up!?!?! "I would rather be ashes than dust! I like the design, but they are not very flexible, and sizes 1 and 2 do not seem to fit as well as the Metolius TCU equivalent. Rob, off topic, but which sizes of Totem are you using on Peak Lime? But even Honnold has to thrust his body into deep fissures from time to time:"Many of the most classic routes in the world, As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse It fit in a tiny crack and despite the small lobes it inspired confidence a rare thing for me when making such small placements. Boy I would love to, but I haven't had the opportunity. The other notable feature of the Dragonflys are their extendable slings which reduce the amount of quickdraws you need to take, and help prevent the cam walking when the sling is deployed. TAS 7000 Up To 30% Off Backcountry MTB Apparel .css-1081t4c{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}Shop Now, Basecamp Under The Stars Shop Coolers, Camp Furniture & More.